San Carlos Apache Reservation, Arizona – March 2023 – Coolidge Dam

The Gila River runs for hundreds of miles through New Mexico and Arizona. For centuries it ran wild, sometimes flooding, many times dry, until the early 1900s when the U.S. federal government built a number of dams.

The Coolidge Dam was started during the administration of Calvin Coolidge, finally being completed in 1930, after Silent Cal was out of office. Regardless Cal and his wife came to this remote area of Arizona for the dedication.

Also there was noted satirist Will Rogers, who when he gazed out at what was supposed to be a lake behind the dam, but was nothing but tall grasses because of an ongoing drought remarked ‘someone should mow the lake’.

Not long ago it was almost back down to nothing but weeds but thanks to a very rainy couple of monsoon seasons and a equally rainy winter, the lake is back.

The dam and lake is located in a mountainous area of the San Carlos Apache Reservation.

The dam is designed with three concrete domes, supported by buttresses. After 100 years of Arizona weather, the dam looks a bit rough, even with major reconstruction in the 1990s.

The dam is 580′ long, and consists of a 2 lane roadway.

The art deco architecture of it’s 1920s construction is evident.

The dam is 249′ above the Gila River.

The reservoir behind the dam is known as San Carlos Lake.

U.S. route 70 is a major 2 lane route through much of Arizona (and across the country). It’s original design ran straight from Safford to Globe, but once the dam and lake were completed it was re-routed to take a scenic route up to and across the dam, before returning to the main route.

After about 20 years the straighter route was repurposed for U.S. 70, but by this time the state had placed mile markers on the longer, dam route. As a result when the road returned to it’s original route, it was ‘missing’ 12 miles. Rather than replace all the mile markers from here to New Mexico, they just skipped it, so to this day if you drive along U.S. 70 the mile markers make an unexplained 12 mile jump. The Arizona DOT has a page detailing this anomoly. https://azdot.gov/adot-blog/case-us-70s-missing-12-miles

The dam route was obviously built for the U.S. highway system of the 1930s as there are bridges across all of the washes, but the road doesn’t look as though it has been repaved in 90 years. Though bumpy as hell, it is a scenic ride.

Marana, Arizona – March 2023 – Pinal Air Park

Arizona is home to many airplane boneyards. The Pinal Air Park in Marana is one for commercial aircraft.

Even before you reach the airport you find the random partially disassembled 747s sitting in the desert.

This McDonnell Douglas MD82 used to fly for China Eastern Airlines. It too sits just offsite of the airport.

Some of the fields surrounding the airport are green from winter rains and irrigation, making a nice contrast with the parked Atlas Air 747 in the background.

For obvious reasons all photos of Pinal Airpark were taken outside the fence, including these 4 vertical stabilizers.

Most seemed to be missing their doors.

Along the front fence is a large collection of American Airline’s CRJs.

The collection is varied, and seemingly randomly parked.

Our final look is this Boeing plan seemingly smiling at us.

Bisbee, Arizona – January 2023 – A Revisit to Lowell

The city of Bisbee is actually made up of the original town, plus a few of the outlying former small towns. One of those just south of the original part of Bisbee is Lowell.

The town was once like most places, with a main street shops and a few neighborhoods. Unfortunately for Lowell the massive copper mine next door wiped out all of the housing leaving only the main street, Erie Avenue.

Rather than completely die, Erie Avenue lives on thanks to a group of people who make up Lowell Americana Project.

At first glance it seems it is a ghost town where someone has parked a number of old vehicles. Closer examination shows there are a number of business that cater to the steady (but small) stream of tourists, including the very good Bisbee Breakfast Club restaurant – get the Shrimp Omelet, it is very good.

We arrived mid afternoon on a Sunday so there weren’t any tourist cars parked in the way of the photo ops with the vintage ones parked all along Erie Street.

One of many low angle views, this one of an Edsel.

Almost all of the cars and trucks parked around town are ‘rusty gold’ including this Studebaker pickup.

An old Chevy underneath the dealership sign.

This old bus has been renamed Strayhound.

There are a few open businesses to entertain you.

A couple of fully restored vehicles stand out amongst the rust.

Lowell, Arizona is one quirky stop, and literally about 1/4 mile from the Shady Dell!

Bisbee, Arizona – January 2023 – The Shady Dell

Bisbee, Arizona is an eclectic little city that has for more than 100 years been a mining town. In addition for the last 40 years it has been a tourist town focused on their thriving artist community. As a result you get some really funky places like the Shady Dell.

The Shady Dell amazingly dates from 1927, when it was started as a motor court for the traffic that was going across county on U.S. 80, long before the interstates.

Today the Shady Dell is home to a number of permanently parked vintage campers that you can rent out for the night.

The Shady Dell’s environment encourages a sense of community.

If you are hungry Dot’s Diner is part of the setting for breakfast and lunch.

The trailers are scattered about, giving you a peaceful setting.

To add to the atmosphere there are a few old cars and trucks sitting around.

For a bit more luxury they offer a restored bus.

For those who love the water, this 1947 Chris Craft yacht is the ticket. Sorry no water, it’s Arizona.

The Shady Dell is truly one of those funky places that you must make a stop at. If you want to stay overnight, plan ahead, rumor has it they are booked up 6 months in advance.

Douglas, Arizona – January 2023 – Gadsden Hotel

Our last stop in Douglas is the historic Gadsden Hotel.

Completed during the Douglas boomtime of 1907, the hotel was destroyed by a fire in 1928 and rebuilt by the same architect who designed all the other important buildings in town, El Paso architect Henry Trost.

It is a majestic building for such a small town.

Legend has it that Pancho Villa rode his horse up these stairs, resulting in a chip in the 7th step up. How, you say, can the staircases have damage from Pancho Villa, who died in 1923, when the hotel burned in 1928.

They, along with the columns, survived the fire.

The painting at the top of the stairs is titled Cave Creek Canyon – Chiricahua Mountain by Audley Dean Nichols.

Bisbee resident Michael Page is a set designer who has done significant work in Hollywood, and has used these staircases as inspiration for a set he completed for the Oscar’s.

In addition to being inspirations, it has been featured in movies, including the Paul Newman movie The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean.

The 42′ long mural at the top of the stairs was completed by Ralph Baker – who was a Tiffany protege.

The columns have gold leafing on them.

A closer look at one of the skylights.

The hotel still uses the old school keys, waiting behind the receptionist desk.

Adding to the overall retro feel is the shoe shine stand, telephone booths and water fountain.

There are conquistador statues gracing the staircase.

The Cafe 333 is the onsite restaurant. It too has the panache to match the rest of the hotel.

In addition to the restaurant they have the Saddle and Spur Tavern.

The Gadsden Hotel is a real treasure of Southern Arizona.

Douglas, Arizona – January 2023 – A Historic Border Town

The town of Douglas, Arizona was founded in 1905 as a copper smelting center. It sits directly on the border, across from Agua Prieta Sonora Mexico. For decades the two towns functioned as one.

As with most towns and cities in Southern Arizona it has a history of Native American, Mexican and European cultures.

The town very early on had an airport that attracted cross country flights, including Amelia Earhart who stopped by during a 1929 Women’s Air Derby.

It was known as the world’s first international airport since the runway crossed the border – not anymore.

The town has many historic buildings, including the former El Paso and Southwestern Railroad depot at the north end of town. It now serves as the police headquarters.

Completed in 1913 it is said to have an impressive interior, but sadly we were unable to see inside.

The Avenue Hotel consists of two buildings. The left one is made of adobe and dates from 1901. The one on the right is a 1915 brick building.

It is now a B & B.

The 1919 Grand Theater was the center of cultural events for Douglas. While it closed as a theater decades ago, it is in the process of being restored, albeit slowly. This is understandable given the significant cost for such a small town.

The Brophy Building was completed during the boom years in 1907. It was designed by famed El Paso architect Henry Trost.

It too is waiting for someone with the love, and money, to restore to it’s former glory.

This small building has had a varied history. Another Henry Trost building, it was completed in 1913 as the Airdome Theater.

It closed as a theater and became a Chevrolet dealership in the 1920s. The depression took out the dealership and it became a supermarket.

In the 1940s it became a USO canteen serving the thousands of soldiers from a nearby Army Air Corp training center. Later it became a real estate and insurance office. Today is still serves as a financial advisor’s office, and a copy center. They should call it the cat building as it seems to have had 9 lives.

Our final stop in Douglas is the Gadsden Hotel, which is featured in the next posting by itself.

Douglas is a pleasant little city with some interesting history.

Tucson – January 2023 – Mission Gardens

While Tucson has been home to European descent people for a few hundred years, the Native American’s have been here much longer. The Mission Gardens are at the base of Sentinel Mountain, also known as ‘A’ Mountain with the giant University of Arizona ‘A’ in rocks at the top.

This location is the oldest known canal irrigated agriculture in the United States, having been home to people for 3500 years!

It is known as the birthplace of Tucson.

The gardens celebrate this history with Hohokam, O’Odham, Spanish, Mexican and Chinese cultures, as well as others.

The garden is home to many plants and trees that while might not be native to the area, have been historically important, like one of the ‘C’s of Arizona – Citrus.

Another one of the ‘C’s are represented with a few small cotton plants, which has historically been grown by the Hohokam in the deserts of what is now Arizona for thousands of years.

There is ongoing debate about the future of the cotton industry in Arizona because of the amount of water it takes to grow (although far less that the massive alfalfa fields you see throughout the state).

There are some flowers interspersed throughout the garden, including these Marigolds.

Being in the desert much of the perimeter landscaping are the native plants like the prickly pear and barrel cactus.

Some primitive art is scattered about as well.

The Chinese Cultural Center was having a celebration the day we visited.

While small, the gardens provide a vital service teaching people how to survive in the desert, while celebrating the past.

Glendale, Arizona – January 2023 – Katsina & Kachina Figurines

In the middle of the Martin Auto Museum is a collection of Katsina & Kachina figurines. They are essentially the same thing only a Katsina is Hopi whereas a Kachina is a Navajo/Diné.

The figurines were traditionally given to the young during ceremonies to teach them of the culture and history, as well as hope for the future. They were not designed to be played with, rather studied and celebrated. The wikipedia page for Katsina/Kachina’s provides a good overview of the history and meaning of the designs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hopi_Kachina_figure

I welcome any corrections to the identifications of the individual figurines.

The first two are actually Ezra Brooks Whiskey decanters. The company started producing these in the 1970s but had to stop as they were violating the copyrights that the Hopi had on them. This then caused the ones that did exist to become valuable.

This is an example of a Navajo/Diné dancer.

A Hopi dancer.

Mixed in with the figurines is this non Katsina brass Kokopelli.

A Navajo/Diné warrior.

Internet research is mixed on the identification of the next ones – most seem to say Hopi, but not all.

Regardless of their origins( Hopi or Navajo/Diné), the figurines are beautiful, with great histories.

Scottsdale, Arizona – January 2023 – The Art of Hood Ornaments

In days past most cars had hood ornaments used primarily to communicate the brand. Most of the very early ones also served as radiator caps.

Our look at this art form on the hood start with a 1930s Cadillac. It was known as the Flying Goddess, and was available on Cadillacs up until the late 1950s.

Having failed to note what car this is on, this ‘coiled cobra’ hood ornament only shows up on a 1931 Isotta Fraschini using a Google Images search.

Another Goddess, this one is the Packard Goddess of Speed.

Another great Packard hood ornament. Supposedly patterned on the family crest, it has been called a pelican or sometimes a cormorant.

The 1930 Cadillac LaSalle ornament is leading the way.

The emblem below the ornament indicates this is a 1932 Cadillac LaSalle.

The Cadillac LaSalle series continues with this 1938.

A similar look to the Cadillac, this art deco style ornament is from a 1930s Packard.

The Quail from a 1930s Ford.

This Chevrolet of he same time period has this ornament known as the Confederate

As we move into the 1950s Oldsmobile the ornaments are much more streamlined.

Our final ornament is a swan from an unidentified car. Feel free to identify.

Scottsdale, Arizona – January 2023 – Penske Racing Musuem

Roger Penske is a long time auto racing team owner, with his cars racing, primarily in Indy Car and Nascar. He is also the owner of numerous business, including many car dealerships.

In the middle of an auto mall of luxury cars such as Lamborghini and Ferrari there is a Penske Racing Museum, with a few of his more famous race cars.

In 1969 Penske had his first entry in the Indy 500 – this Lola. It was driven by Mark Donohue, who qualified 4th but finished 7th.

Penske Racing and Donohue won Indy in 1927 with this McLaren M16B Offenhauser.

The 1984 Indy 500 winner, with a March chassis and a Cosworth engine (as nearly every entry that year were). It was driven by Rick Mears.

This 2018 car was another Indy 500 winner, driven by Will Power. It was Penske’s 17th win at Indy as an owner. The car was powered by a Chevrolet V6 engine.

More Indy cars from over the years.

2018 Indy 500 Corvette Pace Car

Tom Sneva Penske PC-5 1977 Indy 500 car. He is famous for being the first driver to qualify with a lap over 200 MPH. While he did well in the race he ended up finishing second to A.J. Foyt.

Danny Sullivan’s 1985 Indy 500 winner, another March chassis with a Cosworth engine. This race is famous for Danny doing a 360 degree spin while fighting for first place, and not crashing, later to retake 1st place for the win.

The final car is the 1972 Pontiac 442 that was the pace car for the Indy 500. The Penske Racing Museum in Phoenix is worth the visit if you are in the area. While it isn’t very large, the cars are unique, and the cost is great – it is free.