Virtual Travel – Atlantic Provinces

Just because we are done with the States doesn’t mean we are done with the virtual travel. It’s off to Canada, where we will travel east to west, starting with the Atlantic Provinces.

With just over 2 million people in the size of California, it is sparsely populated, but full of adventure.

 

Newfoundland & Labrador

2016 09 05 18 Across Newfoundland

 

Newfoundland was the home of the first European landing in the Western Hemisphere when the Vikings arrived around the year 1000, 500 years before Columbus. Today it is paired with Labrador to make up the province.

Cape Spear is the easternmost point of North America. The cliffs overlooking the ocean were used as a fort during World War II, with many remnants still onsite.

There has been a lighthouse on this point since 1836, with this one dating from 1955.

 

 

St John’s is the largest city and capital of the province, with a metro population of around 200,000. It is situated on a naturally protected bay.

2016 09 05 87 St Johns NL Signal Hill

 

 

St John’s is known for brightly painted homes, known as Jellybean Houses. The legend is they were painted that way so fishermen could see them in the fog, but in reality it was a marketing campaign from the 1970s that lead to the expansion of the style.

2016 09 05 71 St Johns NL

 

 

The Quidi Vidi neighborhood is a traditional fishing village that has had some gentrification and is a popular tourist and party spot.

2016 09 05 74 St Johns NL

 

 

In my travels around the world I have been to a number of unusually named places, but this town, named for the long thin pin that goes through the hole on the side of a row boat to hold the oar on, attracts the most attention.

Jimmy Kimmel has featured this town on his show, and has paid for a ‘Hollywood’ type ‘Dildo’ sign to be erected on a hillside.

 

 

Gander is a small Newfoundland town that for many years was the stopping off point for international flights between Europe and the United States. By the 1960s the airplanes had sufficient range to make the trip non stop, and Gander Airport was largely abandoned.

The unused international arrival hall is a time warp to 1960, in pristine condition.

On 9-11 all the flights were grounded, with 38 large aircraft unexpectedly arriving, leaving 6,000 passengers and crew stranded in a town of 10,000. The response of the townspeople was amazing, and remains a legend to this day. They housed and fed all those unexpected visitors for a couple of days until they were able to travel to their destinations.

2016 09 06 27 Gander NL

 

 

Gros Morne National Park is where the Appalachian Mountains reach the Atlantic Ocean. It is a spectacular place with widely diverse landscapes.

2016 09 07 60 Gros Morne National Park NL

 

 

The town of Port Aux Basques is one of the two ferry terminals to the mainland in Newfoundland.

The town has always been a gateway to the province. It was also the destination for the first Trans-Atlantic cable.

 

2016 09 07 124 Port Aux Basques NL

 

 

The ferries are some of the largest in North America, with one having a capacity of 600 automobiles, although most trips have a significant number of semis.

It is a floating parking garage.

2016 09 04 53 Ferry to Newfoundland

 

 

 

 

Nova Scotia

Latin for New Scotland, Nova Scotia has an extensive Atlantic coastline.

 

2016 09 04 6 Drive Through Nova Scotia

 

 

The Nova Scotia countryside is scenic, with many lakes and hills.

 

 

The town of Truro had streets limed with elm trees, but they were killed in the Dutch Elm disease that impacted much of the eastern continent.

Truro has turned 43 of those trees into sculptures.

2016 09 08 4 Truro NS

 

 

Halifax is Nova Scotia’s largest city. It is the largest city in the Atlantic Provinces.

It was settled in the mid 1700s.  (photos from Wikipedia)

Clockwise from top: Downtown Halifax skyline, Crystal Crescent Beach, Central Library, Sullivan's Pond, Peggy's Cove, Macdonald Bridge

 

 

 

 

New Brunswick

New Brunswick borders Maine for hundreds of miles, sharing a similar culture.

 

 

2016 09 03 17

 

 

 

Saint John is one of the 3 larger towns in the province, although none are very large.

Carleton Martello Tower National Historic Site offer a nice overview of the city.

 

 

The Fundy Coast is very scenic, looking more like the Pacific Coast than the Atlantic.

2016 09 03 52 Fundy Trail NB

 

 

The Bay of Fundy has some of the highest tides in the world, going up and down more than 40′ most days. Low tide allows you to walk around on the sea floor, before making the quick trip back up the stairs before it comes back in .

The tides also leave some rivers dry for periods of each day. In Moncton this tidall bore results in a wave twice a day large enough for surfers to ride it for miles.

2016 09 03 98 Hopewell Rocks NB

 

 

Fredericton is the Provincial Capital.

2016 09 08 39 Fredricton NB

At almost 1300′ long, the Hartland Covered Bridge is the longest in the world. Driving through it feels like you are in a wooden tunnel.

2016 09 09 4 Hartland NB

The Grand Falls is a 75′ drop on the Saint John River in the town of Grand Falls. The day we were there most of the water was shut off.

2016 09 09 14 Grand Falls NB

 

 

 

 

Prince Edward Island

The smallest province by area and population (the 3 Canadian ‘territories’ have lower populations), PEI was for many years separated from the mainland, reached only by a ferry.

That all changed in 1997 when the 8 mile long Confederation Bridge was completed.

The island’s largest industry is tourism.

 

(photos from CNN.com)

Confederation Bridge | The Canadian Encyclopedia

19. PEI confederation bridge.

 

15. PEI Cavendish beach

5. PEI Thunder Cove

 

 

 

Tomorrow – Quebec!

 

 

 

 

 

Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland – Late Summer 2016 Road Trip – Day 12

In all of our adventures it is really amazing that the weather doesn’t impact us more than it does, but on this day we woke to a foggy rainy day which was disappointing because we reserved seats on a cruise into the gorge at Western Brook Pond, a fresh water fjord carved out by glaciers during the most recent ice age.

The landscape at Gros Morne during our drive to our hotel yesterday was stunning with views of mountains and steep cliffs dropping into the ocean and gorge that we wanted to see up close.

After leaving our motel in Cow Head, we drove to the trail that led to the boat tour where other tourists waited hoping for the weather to improve. Visibility was only about 50 feet with poor conditions to see anything so we decided to skip the boat ride and went to the fishery at Broom Point.

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The tour guide had not arrived yet so we explored the area on our own but it was windy and foggy, providing an excellent photo op of an ocean front privy held up with wooden boards and only one other building stood in the park so we left.

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We had to drive to Rocky Harbour to cancel our boat reservation and it turned out to be a scenic ride that presented lots of opportunities for photos, because amazingly we popped out of the fog. The ladies at the boat tour reservations desk however have a web cam back at the boat and they assured us it wasn’t going to sail that day because of the fog.

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Having finalized the decision not to wait for a boat tour that wouldn’t occur, we continued to the Tablelands, an environment so different from where we started that morning. Most of Newfoundland that we have seen was green with water everywhere in forms of fjords, rivers, waterfalls, countless ponds and lakes, also with mountains and ridges covered with evergreen trees; but the tablelands looked more like a barren desert with prickly brush.

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The Tablelands were a rocky mountainous landscape where we hiked a two kilometer trail up the hill to a lookout to see straight into the pass between the mountains. It was incredibly windy making it hard to walk along the trail.

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We did see two waterfalls from the trail that ran down the mountain range beside us. Returning to the car, we headed down the road a short distance climbing almost 900 feet in only minutes to Green Gardens for a better look at the mountains. Even with the clouds and fog, the view was very pretty.

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Gros Morne National Park is a spectacular place, far off the beaten path, but with scenery to match the best in the United States. We felt it was every bit as impressive as many of the parks out west, and definitely the best in the eastern half of the continent.

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We left the park for lunch at the Deer Park Motel and Restaurant, where we had very good clam chowder and a hot turkey sandwich. Well nourished, we headed out onto the TCH again for the four hour drive to Port Aux Basques ferry terminal.

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On the way we passed Corner Brook, which I knew well from the in flight maps on all the trips I had taken back and forth to Europe. When I saw Corner Brook pop up on my map on the airplane I knew we were back over land, which always gave me a sense of relief. The city of Corner Brook is clearly an industrial town with a port, as we saw one of the largest piles of logs ever ready to be shipped.

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The road between Corner Brook and Port aux Basques is 120 miles of trees, mountains and damn few people, so we sailed along admiring the scenery, except during the intermittent rain showers, which always seemed to occur when we would go through areas signed ‘significant moose activity – be alert’, complete with 12′ high fences along the roads, however we went 1000 miles through the northlands and never saw a moose, other than the plastic one at the rest area in Maine.

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Not long before we reached Port Aux Basques we came upon Cape Race, which has a nice lighthouse. It is located in a small town but important because it is here where the trans-Atlantic cable connected from St. Johns, Newfoundland to Cape Breton, Nova Scotia and then to the North American mainland crossing borders to New York City. The cable is now replaced with modern electric lines but a historic marker is erected in front of the lighthouse on the edge of the shore.

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The wind produced a steady line of waves that crashed onto the beach for some great photos. Small homes lined the street to the lighthouse and also stood along the pretty shoreline. Mountains sat in a beautiful backdrop of shanties for homes. It was a thousand dollar house with a million dollar view.

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We took our time driving the rest of the way to Port aux Basque. When we arrived in the town, we stopped at the Historic Railroad Museum. The Railway Heritage Centre consists of a replica of the original 1898 passenger station and a restored nine car train. The train is made up of a snowplow, diesel locomotive, two tank cars from World War II, a Newfoundland boxer, sleeper, two baggage cars and a caboose. The museum was closed for us to go inside but I think we saw the main attractions outside.

After a visit to a quirky little shop for a Newfoundland T shirt, we had a leisurely dinner at Pizza Delight. 

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Just down the road was the Port Aux Basque Marine Atlantic ship terminal to board the ferry to Nova Scotia, where we arrived 3 hours early, spending the time hanging out in the modern terminal editing the photos from the last few days.

Since we were on another over night crossing, we had again reserved a cabin with a private bath. At 10 p.m. we drove the car onto the Marine-Atlantic ferry with hundreds of other cars and semi-trailers, and headed to our cabin for a quick night’s sleep.

2016 09 07 124 Port Aux Basques NL.jpg

Newfoundland – Late Summer 2016 Road Trip – Day 11 – Across the Province

Knowing we had a long drive today across Newfoundland to reach Gros Morne National Park at a reasonable time, we left the chic hotel for breakfast at McDonald’s. Although we got our usual McDonalds breakfast, we did notice lots of new choices offering a healthier menu than in the states. Egg on bagel, wraps, and a case of fresh pastries looked yummy. The locals with their Irish slanted accent greeted us a warm welcome and a good day as we left. Newfoundlanders like to talk and are very friendly.

On the way across Newfoundland we took a brief detour to see Dildo. Yes there is a town in Newfoundland called Dildo, which seems to have come upon hard times. Located on a picturesque inlet, there is not much there except the Needs Convenience Store, the Dildo Post Office and the Dildo Interpretive Centre, which was closed so it will remain a mystery what they interpret.

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Oh yes, apparently once a year they have the Dildo festival. Supposedly it was once used for a long fairly thin pin stuck in the edging of a row boat to act as a pivot for the oar. Regardless after about 10 minutes we had had enough and moved on.

2016 09 06 7 Dildo NL.jpg

As we continued across Newfoundland we continued to be amazed at how much traffic there was for a province the size of California with less than a half of a million people. But the Trans Canada Highway (the TCH) was well built, with numerous third lanes for passing the trucks. We made a brief stop at Terra Nova National Park to stretch the legs and enjoy a beautiful overlook, complete with two Red Chairs, which are a Canadian tradition.

2016 09 06 14 Drive across Newfoundland.jpg

Our next stop was in We drove to Gander, Newfoundland to see the Gander International Airport. Gander is well know as a stop off in the early days of aviation for flights going to and from Europe made a fuel stop here. While it is still an active airport, their famous international lounge has been closed off  from use, but still visible from an upper level overlook.

Decorated in the mid-century design that looks pristine yet today, complete with a 72-ft mural of people and birds representing hope, wealth, and peace was painted across the top portion of the wall. The blocks of colorful terrazzo floor spanned the large room. A wooden sculpture of a bird stood at one end of the room; supposedly kissing the top of the head of the bird gives you good luck.

2016 09 06 27 Gander NL.jpg

Gander is near the great circle route between U.S. East Coast cities and London. On September 11, 2001, with United States airspace closed due to the terrorist attacks, Gander International Airport played host to 38 airliners, totaling 6,122 passengers and 473 crew members. With not enough hotel and restaurants to accommodate the stranded flyers, Gander’s residents hospitably brought homemade bagged lunches to the flyers as they stepped off the plane and converted schools and large buildings for temporary shelters. Some residents offered their homes as additional lodgings when the public buildings were filled. To thank the town for its role in helping thousands of temporary transients in the wake of the attacks, New Yorkers gifted Gander with a piece of steel from the World Trade Center’s south tower.

2016 09 06 18 Gander NL.jpg

Finally we reached Gros Morne National Park on the western side of Newfoundland, where we had to go another 60 miles to get to our hotel in the town of Cow Head, giving us a preview of what we would see tomorrow. It is amazing to see the mountains and fjords, and realize you are on the east coast, not west coast.

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As we made our way north we stopped at a number of overlooks, as well as Lobster Head Cove, complete with a lighthouse.

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We paused for a time at an area where you could look back at Western Brook Pond, and the 2000′ high cliffs that line it. Unfortunately it was a few miles off in the distance, but I had made boat tour reservations for the next day to see it up close.

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Finally we arrived in Cow Head, and checked into our room at the Shallow Bay Motel, with our ocean view room – literally 5′ out our window. The motel also had a restaurant and theater.As you can imagine there aren’t many restaurants in some place called Cow Head, Newfoundland, so we had dinner at the hotel.

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