As I drove along in far western Kansas, into the Oklahoma then Texas panhandles, I was lucky enough to experience a great sunset.
Today’s stop is Oklahoma.
In the early 1800s the United States government was taking over Native American land at a fast pace. One of the concepts they came up with for the people they were displacing was to create ‘Indian Territory’ in the middle of the country. The map below shows how the area that was to become the state of Oklahoma was divided up amongst the various tribes.
In 1889 the government was going to open up the area in the middle that was ‘unassigned’. The plan was to allow people to head for this land at noon on April 22, 1889, however a number of people took off early, despite a ‘sooner clause’ stating anyone who did would be denied land. Originally the term Sooner was derogatory, but now it is embraced by most Oklahomans.
In downtown Oklahoma City there is a large statue collection celebrating that day.
Oklahoma became a state in 1907. The current State Capitol building was completed in 1917, and has the unique feature of a working oil well on the grounds.
Unusual state symbols of the day
Official State Caricature Artist – Teresa Farrington
State Monument – Golden Driller – This guy is huge – 76′ tall.
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The Native American culture is celebrated far and wide throughout Oklahoma. The largest celebration is the Red Earth Festival.This multi day cultural event includes a parade. (photo from Wikipedia)
Everywhere you go you see signs of the Native culture. Many are excellent tributes, but some are a bit more commercial (like the gas stations with tepees).
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Oklahoma is mostly a vast plains.
Oklahoma is known as the center of tornado alley, having suffered from numerous deadly tornadoes each year. The National Weather Center is located in Norman, and has a collection of weather collecting devices on display.
There are a few areas that aren’t flat plains, like Gloss Mountain.
There are also hills in Southeastern Oklahoma. (photo from Pintrest)
As you travel around the state you come across a number of random sights.
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Wait, was it left on 28 or right on 82….
Oil is big business in Oklahoma, once home of Phillips Petroleum.
Darryl Starbirds’ National Rod and Custom Hall of Fame is located in far eastern Oklahoma. Well worth going out of your way to get there.
Grand River Dam.
Cities and Towns
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Oklahoma City is the state capitol, and largest city (not by much – Tulsa is nearly as large). It is a nice city, with a decent downtown, and a hipster neighborhood called Bricktown.
Tulsa – As noted, Tulsa is nearly as large as OKC. It has long been a center of the oil industry.
Tulsa has always been a center of the music scene, with the ‘Tulsa Sound’. Eric Clapton is such a fan, most of his band is usually made up of Tulsans.
Bartlesville was the headquarters of Phillips Petroleum. It is home to a landmark Frank Lloyd Wright skyscraper.
Oklahoma seems to be a center for statues.
Just south of Oklahoma City is the Museum of Osteology. Oklahoma was surprisingly interesting, well worth a visit.
The following are interesting scenes that didn’t fit any of the other postings.
Lajitas, Texas – The only place to stay was a golf resort, but it had a great sunset.
Texas border area – We saw a few instances of the border patrol in action, including going through 2 checkpoints along the highway. Strangely the checkpoints were at least 40 miles from the border.
Marfa, Texas – This town is an artist enclave for New York artists. How and why a bunch of New York artists decided to go to a small west Texas town is far too long for this blog.
Fort Davis, Texas is a historic town with a former frontier fort. Today it has a couple of cool re purposed buildings.
Pecos, Texas – For about 100 miles in any direction from Pecos were new fracking oil wells. The landscape was filled with these towers burning off natural gas, as well as truck traffic jams and RVs parked in the desert for the workers. The high pay also caused our most expensive hotel night in Carlsbad, New Mexico as the demand for housing far exceeds supply.
Roswell, New Mexico – While I have a posting for the UFO industry of Roswell, there was also a very cool airplane ‘boneyard’.
Portales, New Mexico – When we were driving into town the billboard for Burger King said ‘next to the airplane’. They weren’t kidding.
Hereford, Texas – Beef capital of the world. I think they are correct.
Canyon, Texas – A Giant Cowboy
Amarillo, Texas – Much cleaner energy source.
Canadian, Texas – Lonesome train blues.
Near Shattuck, Oklahoma – Folk Art along the Highway.
Fairview, Oklahoma – We were looking for some Good Eats, but needed to find somewhere else.
Jet, Oklahoma – One of our disappointments was being unable to check out the Salt Plains National Refuge – where you can dig around for crystals in the salt flats. Much of Oklahoma was flooded, and it flooded the salt flats.
The cows however were making the most of their new beach.
Somewhere in Oklahoma – The Perfect Farm Photo
Part 2 in a second posting.
Those who follow this blog regularly know many of the postings are for architecture, and many of those have featured Frank Lloyd Wright. FLW generally is known for his homes, but did design some commercial properties as well.
One of his most famous commercial properties is the Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma. While a 19 floor building in a small city might seem out of place there are a few other buildings of similar height, as it was the headquarters for Phillip 66 petroleum company, and continues to be a major employer as part of Conoco – Phillips.
As usual there are many unique touches to the design, including these inlaid logos in the floor for the original owner’s company.
The building houses an art museum, as well as a collection of the original furnishings.
The building was built with offices and apartments. The apartments have been turned into a boutique hotel – we were lucky enough to get a 2 level room on the 13th and 14th floors.
The furnishings are new but fit the style perfectly.
As with many FLW designs there is quirkiness to the design (the bathroom was insanely small, and the stairs were narrow and at an angle) but it was worth it to spend the night in a work of art.
Next door is a performing arts center designed by a FLW student.
The Price Tower is one of America’s great buildings!
As you drive across the flatlands of Oklahoma one feature you do not expect is a redish mesa rising 200 feet above the prairie, but that is exactly what Gloss Mountain does.
In fact there are a few of these features in the area just outside of the small, appropriately named town of Fairview.
The hike up the mesa was on some sketchy looking stairs, but they worked – from the top you have a panoramic view of the area.
These unique features were formed long ago when the area was under a sea that left behind layers of shale and siltstone, with a top layer of gypsum. There is something known as selenite in gypsum that is glossy, hence the name.
The mesa’s were formed from erosion over thousands of years.
From here you have a seemingly endless view across the flat lands.
Once you reach the top you pass numerous fields of wild flowers.
Gloss Mountain – an unexpected and fun hike in the middle of Oklahoma.
Day 20 started out checking some of the sights of Oklahoma City that we missed yesterday, starting at the Centennial Land Rush Monument commemorating the 1889 Oklahoma Land Rush. It was at the edge of the Unassigned Lands reserved for the Indians where 50,000 people lined up ready to claim land for themselves. The land rush allowed Oklahoma to become a territory and apply for statehood with the instant increase in population.
There are 35 statues of men, women, children, and animals racing frozen in motion. It begins with a man firing a cannon to start the rush. There are a few statues of people already across the line, or Sooners as they became known who did not wait for the cannon fire. The Land Rush is one of the largest freestanding bronze sculptures in the world. As we left the park of the Land Rush Monument, we saw a single statue of Chickasaw, a native of the area.
From there we drove to the Oklahoma State Capitol building, which is amazingly fronted by an oil derrick at the center of the entrance complete with the smell of oil.
Just down the street was a collection of Miss America statues at the Oklahoma City University. There to greet you are a trio of bronze statues dedicated to the school’s three Miss America winners, Jane Jayroe, Susan Powell and Shawntel Smith along with a walk of fame. I recognized the star of Kristen Chenowith on the walk of fame. How ironic that our road trip took us to the museum where earlier we saw the bus from the movie RV which she played the role of Mary Jo Gornicke whose family lived on the bus.
South of Oklahoma City is the Museum of Osteology. The museum is the result of Skulls Unlimited, a business that processes the cleaning of skeletons and resells the skeletons or bones to schools, collectors, and labs. The business started when the owner was an seven year old boy and found a dog skull. His family encouraged him to pursue his interest and later in life he opened the museum to display donated and legally purchased bones and skeletons from around the world. A humpback whale skeleton suspends from the ceiling of the two-story museum. A skeleton of a giraffe stands 13 feet tall while skulls of hippos, elephant, reptiles and many mammals and fish are displayed behind lit glass. Facts about the animal such as diet and habitat are posted next to the skeletons. Approximately 600 skeletons were on display. Mounted heads of antelope, deer, and moose lined the walls of the lobby and gift shop. There are also some fossilized pieces from thousands of years ago.
A video showing the steps involved to archive the white clean bones played. Mike Rowe of the television show Dirty Jobs featured an episode when he visited Skulls Unlimited to clean an elephant skull. I was surprised that part of the process was done by the use of domestic beetles to devour the remaining bits of flesh off of the bones after flencing. The bones then take a hydrogen peroxide bath to whiten the bones. Later the bones are put together into an action pose with rods drilled into the bones and putty. The skeletons are then placed in the museum as pieces of art.
Norman, Oklahoma is a city not far from Oklahoma City where the actor, James Garner is honored with a statue, as well as Oklahoma University, with an impressive football stadium
Another stop in Norman, OK was the headquarters of the National Weather Service, part of NOAA, at the campus of the University of Oklahoma. We got there about 11 am to find that tours require scheduling weeks in advance but security allowed us to skim the first floor of the atrium that held posters and monitors with complicated calculations regarding floods in Africa. The NOAA had images of clouds in a database detailing constant radar of weather around the world. Although our visit was limited, the building itself was impressive.
Continuing through southern Oklahoma we found a small church in an old warehouse called the Lexington Worship Center, who has, for unknown reasons, a VW spider, literally a VW Beetle propped up on 6 giant spider legs. This seemed an unusual place for this odd piece of art. The artist must have gotten confused since spiders have eight legs. The hood is painted with two wide white stripes and two eyes where the headlights once were and it stands about 15 feet tall.
Our next stop was at the Cloverleaf, a store in Ardmore, Oklahoma. The store is painted bright pink with pastel colored accents and lots of painted trash used as art inside and out. The entrance has painted bicycles of pink and green that line a circle driveway. Painted mannequins are positioned on some of the bicycles while dozens of pink flamingoes are planted in the grassy yard. Chinese lions and other lawn art are piled up at the front door. We found a variety of novelties inside the store. As we strolled through the shop, the owner’s pet poodles walked with us hoping for attention. A caged cockatiel in the back of the store squawked at us and said a few words. We did not buy anything but talked with the staff and petted the dogs. It was a nice stop to stretch our legs.
We drove a short way from the highway to see the giant people, a quirky item posted on Roadside America. The people were indeed giant concrete structures in Gainesville, Texas. There are still a number of these muffler men as they are known throughout the country but here are five giant people known as the first ever public gathering of two Muffler Men, a Uniroyal Gal, and two Big Johns. These giants stand in front of the headquarters of Glenn Goode, the self-proclaimed fiberglass man. These goliaths are self-standing without guide wires. The size of these big people towered over a cow statue beneath them. Uniroyal Gal is 17 feet tall while the Muffler Men are each 22 feet tall and the Big Johns are both 24 feet tall.
We moved onward to Paris, Texas, a town that most people have heard of despite its size. We stopped at the Visitor Center where Ken and Becky were glad to help and provide yet another t-shirt (Bonjour Y’all from Paris – Texas). They gave us tips of what to see and shop. Ken who is also a member of the Chamber of Commerce walked us around the corner to snap a photo under the painted Paris name on the side of a building. The word PAR*S is missing the letter “I” so that the person standing for the photo becomes the letter “I” in the name while and dotted with the star.
We drove out of town to see Jesus wearing cowboy boots on a gravestone. Under Jesus’ robe is the exposed cowboy boot and is one of the tallest gravestones in the cemetery. The grave is for Willis Babcock.
We drove to the signature feature that best identifies the town of Paris, Texas. Next to the Love County Civic Center stands a 65 foot imitation version of the Eiffel Tower built in 1993. In 1998, as a response to the 1993 construction of a 60-foot tower in Paris, Tennessee, Paris, Texas placed a giant red cowboy hat atop the tower to outdo the Tennessee construction reaching its current height of 65 feet. The current tower is at least the second Eiffel Tower replica built in Texas; the first was constructed of wood and later destroyed by a tornado.
We planned our stay in Texarkana, Texas for the night at the Residence Inn. The hotel had dessert night when we arrived so we grabbed some super sweet chocolate cake and fudge for after dinner. Dinner was at the Longhorn Steakhouse.
A cold, rainy , dark morning greeting us as we left Albuquerque for the long drive to Oklahoma City. Our route, I-40, parallels U.S. 66 the entire route, and most of the towns that have been bypassed try and entice you off the interstate with Route 66 kitsch. We finally succumbed to the allure at Tucumcari, New Mexico as we drove along Route 66. The town now seems vacant and most buildings are boarded up and dilapidated. We did see some Route 66 murals and signs of a once vibrant area.
After passing through town, essentially non stop, we were back on the Interstate.Just before the Texas border we near Glenrio, New Mexico at Russell’s Traveland. Here the owner has a private collection of cars and 1950’s memorabilia nicely displayed next to a 1950’s diner, novelty store and gas station.
Welcome to Texas
Next stop was Adrian, Texas, who has the appeal of being the midpoint of Route 66 from Chicago, Illinois to Los Angeles, California. It is exactly 1139 miles to each end of Route 66. The town had a few buildings, and a cafe. A historical marker noted the midway point while the exact midway point is also painted on the road.
After a quick couple of photos, it was back onto I-40 headed to Amarillo, Texas for what I expected to be a highlight of a lap around America tour, Cadillac Ranch. It is raining as we drive down the freeway and we can see the back ends of the Cadillacs sticking out of the ground.
Parking behind other tourists making the trip through the mud to get a close up look at the Cadillacs, I schlepped through the mud to walk back to the cars. The Cadillacs were thick with inches of paint over every inch of surface inside and out of the cars. People who have visited from all over the world left their mark on these cars by spray painting bright colored graffiti and attaching items.
It was amusing as we watched other tourist trying to remove shoes caked in mud. The mud was so thick on their shoes that they had trouble walking. I foruntately had put on my ‘mudders’, so after a quick shoe change we were off again on I-40.
On the south side of Amarillo, Texas is an RV museum, which is actually a personal collection at Jack Sizemore’s RV Traveland. The Sizemore’s began restoring and collecting unusual vintage RV’s over 25 years ago. They built a museum that houses many of the RV’s in their collection.
These include the Flexible Bus from the Movie RV and the first Itasca motor home ever built. The museum also had a great display of motorcycles that sat upon shelves on the wall, camping items, and 50’s and 70’s memorabilia strewn about relating to different campers and RV’s through the decades. All were open, so we wandered in and out of them for about an hour, including the retro RV driven by the Gornick’s in the movie.
We signed the guest book and pinned our town of Columbus, Ohio on the map at the exit. Two world maps were posted since so many people have come to see the museum and marked their homeland with a pin. Europe and the USA were jammed with pins but other countries around the world were pinned also.
We arrived at Oklahoma City about late afternoon, and after checking into the Holiday Express in the old Bricktown section. As we walked through the city, we found the Chickasaw Brickyard Stadium, home for the Oklahoma AAA baseball team. It is a minor league team for the L A Dodgers. We sneaked a peek at batting practice before we were asked to leave.
After dinner at the Bourbon Street Restaurant for dinner, we continued to tour downtown Oklahoma City.
At the edge of downtown is the Oklahoma City National Memorial dedicated to the 168 killed in the 1995 bombing of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building and their families. Two gates tower at each end of the reflective pool. One gate marks the time one minute before the bombing and the other gate marks the time one minute after the bombing. The later time stands for the start of healing.
A museum detailing the disaster stands on one side of the pool and black metal chairs placed in rows upon the lawn line the opposite side of the pool. The nine rows of chairs represent the nine floors of the building and each chair is the position of the floor for each victim.
The large chairs embody each adult victim and the small chairs symbolize each child victim within the building’s daycare who died. Five separate chairs signify those victims who perished outside the building at the time of the bombing.
As the sun set through the opening of the west gate, lights illuminated the chairs. Though the scene was a perfect photographic moment, the memorial posed a somber reflection for all.